
To drill into tile without cracking it, use a bit made for tile or glass, mark the spot with masking tape, run the drill at low speed in rotation-only mode, and let the bit do the work with light pressure. The glaze is hard and brittle, so the first few seconds matter most.
Gather the Right Gear
- A drill with variable speed and a hammer function you can switch off.
- A bit made for tile, glass or masonry. Check the packaging for the material it suits and the maker’s manual for your drill.
- Masking tape, a marker and a small piece of scrap wood.
- Eye protection and a dust mask, because tile dust is fine and irritating.
- A spray bottle or small cup of water for cooling.
Prepare the Spot
Before drilling, find out what lies behind the wall. Pipes and cables can run behind tiled areas such as bathrooms and kitchens, and drilling into them can cause serious damage or injury. Use a detector made for the job, check any plans you have, and ask a qualified professional if you are unsure.
- Mark the hole position and stay away from the tile edges and grout lines where possible, since tile tends to crack near edges.
- Cover the spot with a cross of masking tape. This stops the bit from skating across the glaze.
- Make a small dimple with a nail punch only if the tile maker allows it; some tiles are better left untouched.
Drill Slowly and Steadily
- Switch off the hammer function. Hammering action can crack tile.
- Hold the bit at a right angle to the surface and begin at a low speed with gentle pressure.
- Once the glaze is cut and the bit has a groove, you can increase speed slightly, but keep it moderate.
- Let the bit cool by pausing now and then and adding a few drops of water. Overheated bits dull quickly.
- Ease off pressure as the bit breaks through the back so the tile does not chip at the rear.
Change Bits for the Wall
Many tile bits are only meant for the tile layer. When you reach the wall behind, you may need a masonry bit or a wood bit depending on the material. Swap bits then, and use a wall plug that suits the fixing and the load, following the maker’s guidance.
| Problem | Common cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Bit wanders | No tape or speed too high | Add tape, slow down |
| Chips around hole | Too much pressure | Lighter force, new bit |
| Cracked tile | Hammer mode or near an edge | Switch it off, move the hole |
FAQ
Can I drill porcelain tile?
Yes, but it is harder than most ceramic. Use a bit that the maker says suits porcelain, go slowly, and keep it cool.
Do I need to drill a pilot hole?
A small first hole can help guide larger bits. Check what your bit maker recommends.
The Short Version
Tape the spot, turn the hammer function off, use the right bit at low speed and keep it cool. Check for hidden pipes and cables first, and ask a professional if you are unsure.