A dripping compression-style tap often has a worn rubber washer inside, and replacing it is a common household repair. This is general guidance only. Tap designs differ, so follow the maker’s manual, check local plumbing rules and call a qualified plumber if you are unsure or find anything unexpected.
Know Your Tap
Traditional taps with separate hot and cold handles that you turn several times are usually compression taps and use a washer. Single-lever mixers and quarter-turn ceramic disc taps work differently and do not use this kind of washer. Look at the tap and its maker’s information before you buy parts.
What You Need
- An assortment of tap washers, or the exact size from the maker.
- Adjustable wrench or spanner, and screwdrivers.
- A cloth or tape to protect the finish from the tools.
- A towel or bowl to catch water.
- Plumber’s grease for the new parts, if the maker recommends it.
General Steps
- Turn off the water. Use the isolation valve under the sink or the main supply valve. Open the tap to drain remaining water. If you cannot shut off the supply, stop and call a plumber.
- Plug the drain. Place a cloth over the plughole so small parts do not fall in.
- Remove the handle. Take off the cap or screw on top and lift the handle.
- Loosen the headgear nut. Use the wrench with a cloth around the nut to protect the finish, and unscrew it gently.
- Lift out the headgear. The washer is at the bottom, held by a small nut or pressed onto a jumper.
- Replace the washer. Remove the old washer, fit a new one of the same size and shape, and refit any retaining nut.
- Reassemble. Put the headgear back, tighten the nut snugly without forcing it, and refit the handle.
- Restore the water. Turn the supply back on slowly and check for drips or leaks around the nut and below the tap.
Troubleshooting
| Symptom | Possible cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Still dripping from the spout | Worn seat or wrong washer size | Check the seat; consider a plumber |
| Leak under the handle | Worn spindle seal or loose nut | Tighten gently or replace the seal |
| Stiff handle | Dry parts or scale | Clean and grease as the maker directs |
| Water will not shut off | Failed isolation valve | Call a plumber |
Why Compression Taps Drip
Understanding what happens inside a compression tap makes the repair easier to follow. When you turn the handle down, a spindle pushes a rubber washer against a metal seat in the tap body, which blocks the flow of water. Each time the tap is closed, the washer is squeezed against the seat, so it gradually hardens, flattens or wears. Once it no longer seals, water slips past and you see a drip from the spout.
Hard water can speed this up. Mineral scale builds up on the seat and roughens it, so even a new washer may fail quickly. Over-tightening the tap each time you close it also wears the washer faster, because extra force squashes it harder than necessary. Close the tap until the flow stops, then stop turning.
A drip from the spout points to the washer or seat, while a leak around the handle or spindle usually points to a worn spindle seal or a loose packing nut. A drip from a pipe or joint underneath the tap is a different problem. Identifying where the water appears helps you buy the right part and avoid dismantling the wrong component. Keep in mind that a slow drip may waste a surprising amount of water over time, so it is worth fixing, but not worth rushing in a way that damages the tap.
Choosing the Right Replacement Parts
Washers come in several sizes and shapes, and the wrong choice will leak or fail to fit. The best approach is to remove the old washer, take it to the supplier and match it by diameter, thickness and style. Flat washers sit on a jumper plate and are held by a small nut, while some taps use a washer that presses onto a stud. Do not guess; compare the old part and the new one side by side.
- Material: most tap washers are rubber or a similar synthetic. Choose one rated for the water temperature, since hot taps need parts that tolerate heat. Check the product packaging.
- Assorted packs: these suit people who are unsure of the size and want a spare for later, but they may contain sizes you never use.
- Jumper and washer sets: in some taps the jumper itself is worn. Replacing the jumper with a washer in one piece saves effort.
- Seat condition: if the seat is rough or pitted, a new washer may not seal. Seat-reseating tools or replacement seats exist for some taps, but they require care. Check the maker’s guidance.
It is sensible to replace the spindle seal or O-ring at the same time if the old one looks worn, since the tap is already apart. Take photos before disassembly so you can match parts, and keep small items in a container.
Protecting the Finish and Avoiding Damage
Tap bodies often have a chrome or coated finish that scratches easily. A few simple precautions will keep the tap looking good. Wrap a cloth or tape around the headgear nut before gripping it with a wrench, and use the right size spanner so the jaws sit flat on the nut. Hold the tap body steady with your other hand, because turning force can twist the tap or loosen the connections below the sink.
If the headgear nut will not budge, do not force it with extra leverage. A stuck nut may be seized by scale. A few drops of a suitable penetrating oil may help in some cases, but check that it is safe for the materials and not for use on parts touching drinking water, then wipe all traces away. If the nut still resists, a plumber may be the better choice than risking a cracked tap body.
Work with a plug or cloth in the sink to catch dropped parts and cover the basin to prevent chips from a dropped tool. Lay a towel down so you do not scratch ceramic. Use plumber’s grease where the maker recommends it, but avoid products unsuitable for drinking water. When refitting, tighten the nut firmly but not hard; overtightening can crack the body or distort the seat. Test with the water supply turned on slowly.
Testing and Checking for Leaks Afterward
A repair is finished only when you have checked it. Turn the water supply back on slowly, with the tap open, so air can escape and pressure builds gradually. Close the tap and watch the spout for a minute or two. Look and feel around the headgear nut, under the handle and along the pipes below for moisture. Use a dry tissue to detect tiny leaks that are hard to see.
If the tap still drips, consider the possible causes in order. The washer may be the wrong size or may not be seated properly on the jumper. The seat may be damaged, which a new washer cannot overcome. There may be debris trapped between washer and seat, so flushing the line briefly with the tap removed might help. If the handle leaks, tighten the packing nut slightly or replace the O-ring or seal.
Recheck the area after an hour and again the next day. A small seep that shows up later can grow. Place a towel or a dry piece of paper under the pipes overnight, so any moisture is easy to detect. If you see water you cannot stop, turn off the isolation valve and contact a qualified plumber. Keep any leftover washers in a labelled bag for the next repair.
Maintenance and When to Replace the Whole Tap
A repaired tap can last for years if you treat it gently. Avoid forcing the handle shut, clean aerators and spouts when flow weakens, and wipe the finish with a soft cloth and mild cleaner instead of harsh abrasives. If you live in a hard water area, descaling the spout and headgear parts from time to time can prolong the life of washers.
Some taps are past the point where repairs make sense. If the seat is badly pitted, the body is corroded or cracked, the threads are damaged or replacement parts are hard to find, a new tap may be more practical. Frequent repeated drips after fitting new washers are another sign. Modern designs such as ceramic disc cartridges avoid washers altogether and are often more durable, but the best choice depends on your sink, pipe connections and style, so check dimensions and compatibility before buying.
Replacing a whole tap involves disconnecting supply lines and sealing connections, which carries more risk of leaks. If you are not comfortable with plumbing, hire a qualified plumber, and always follow local codes. Keep the receipt and any maker’s instructions for warranty purposes, and note the model name or number from the tap for later parts matching.
FAQ
How do I know which washer size to buy?
Take the old washer to the supplier, or buy an assorted pack. Fit the one with the same diameter and shape.
When should I call a plumber?
If you cannot isolate the water, the parts are corroded or stuck, or the leak continues, a qualified plumber is the right choice.
Do I need to turn off the water to the whole house?
Often the isolation valve under the sink is enough. If there is none, or it will not close fully, use the main supply valve instead. If neither works reliably, stop and call a plumber.
Why does my tap still drip after I fitted a new washer?
The seat may be worn or pitted, the washer may be the wrong size, or debris may be trapped. Remove the headgear again and check the seat surface and washer fit. A damaged seat may need reseating or a new tap.
Can I use a washer from an assorted pack for a hot tap?
Check the packaging for temperature ratings. Parts for hot water should say that they tolerate it. If the pack does not say, ask the supplier.
How tight should the headgear nut be?
Snug and firm, but not forced. Over-tightening can damage the body or squeeze the washer. Test for leaks and adjust slightly if needed.
What is the difference between a washer and a ceramic disc cartridge?
A washer is a rubber disc that presses against a seat, while a ceramic cartridge uses two hard discs that slide against each other. Cartridges generally need no washers, but they are not interchangeable with compression parts.
Is it worth replacing the spindle seal at the same time?
If the seal or O-ring looks flattened, cracked or hard, yes. The tap is already apart, and a worn seal can cause leaks around the handle. Match the size carefully.
How can I tell whether my tap is a compression type?
Compression taps usually have separate hot and cold handles that turn several times. Look at the maker's information, or remove the cap and handle to see the internal parts. If it has a lever or a quarter-turn handle, it probably uses a different mechanism.
The Short Version
Identify the tap type, shut off the water, remove the headgear, swap the washer and reassemble gently. Water supply work has risks of leaks and damage, so follow the maker’s manual and local codes, and ask a plumber when in doubt.